Before the 7.2 earthquake that hit Lijiang in 1996, Lijiang is probably unknown to many. Lijiang was so isolated, even to the Chinese then, as there had been invasions and military campaigns in Yunnan, but they rarely affected the inner life of the Naxi people- as the valley is surrounded by the mountains and it was so remote and difficult to access... the life condition was also still barbaric hence soldiers hardly wanted to stay a day more. Thus, Lijiang has always remained so peaceful and isolated and could devote itself to the ancient arts.
One of the very well preserved tradition is the Naxi Ancient Music - 纳西古乐.
Xuan Ke- the President of the Naxi Ancient Music Tradition, is the man who is responsible for leading the preservation of this Ancient Music and publicised it world wide.
On my first night to Lijiang, I really did not know what to expect when I bought the ticket to see the Naxi Ancient Music performance. Upon entrance of the music concert "hall" - one will expect nothing of the grandness of the modern concert hall... it was basically rows of wooden chairs, with a wooden platform with chairs and instruments laid out on them already. No sound system. No covered sound proof or enhanced wall... so you can imagine that is is pretty basic, where one would expect to be a hundred year ago but without a roof maybe and without the decorations.
Authentic!
Anyway at 8pm, it started promptly with all the performers marching in the stage! Men mostly in their 60's 70's and 80's walked in... and noticed that one of them was wearing a black sunglasses and had to be led when walked in- discovered later that he was blind! He was blind since birth but he gives out this sense of funkiness, we were told later by the narrator that he is 80! And he could speak 4 English sentences, which are: How are you, Where are you from, That is a nice country and Bye Bye! (Imagine a "laowai" in conversation with him... A: How are you, Laowai: I am fine; A: Where are you from?, Laowai: Britain (for eg.); A: Oh that is a nice country, Laowai: Oh you know that country; And before Laowai could ask anything else, A: Bye Bye (in a quick manner and escapade!)) :)
They played well- almost all of them hold a different instrument, some string like things- called "sugudu", "quxiapipa", and then there is the "guchen" and some gong chimes. What I found to be so amazing is that there is no conductor, no music scores in front of them, and funnily enough some of these old people look as if they were sleeping when they were playing as they had their eyes almost closed.... how did they play in harmony I have no idea.... perhaps they have practised endlessly... i am guessing perhaps that they were playing with their heart, and feelings...
The sound of the music, had a lot of the Daoism influence in it. It sounds as if music that would be heard during meditation rituals or funerals in the temple... During the performance we were also treated to a Naxi style opera (as opposed to the well known Beijing Opera) the old man told a joke about borrowing his neighbour's wife. Ofcourse I could only understood 30% of it but I could guess from the mimick of the opera singer... he was real funny!
Nearly one hour to the performance- we were treated to a surprise when Xuan Ke himself walked in to the stage. He dressed really simply and pretty modern for a Chinese Man I thought. But what was surprising is that he speak fluent English. He told us a story that he just turned 80 years old and he regretted celebrating it because now all his friends told him to be careful when he walk, and do this and that... things that a 80 year old should watch out for. BUT he definitely did not look like 80 and his spirit - firing like a youth!
He told us that he went to a Mission School in Kunming when he was young ( did not know that a mission school exist in Kunming in 1940's?) and he majored in music and the English language, but because during the cultural revolution, he went to jail (not sure why) and then when he was released he taught Maths! And he became the best Maths teacher! He has gone to many universities to study and lecture inc. London and Oxford Universities...
On my first night in Lijiang- I was very inspired by him and all the 60-80 years old who played the Naxi music instruments... feeling very proud of their culture and still believe in passing on the tradition to the next...
The Naxi People are really special. More on the next chapter why.
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