Forgotten Kingdom by Peter Gullart:
" The concept of time in Lijiang was totally different from that in the West. In Europe, especially in America, the greater part of time is devoted to making money, not so much to sustain life in decent conditions as to accumulate more and more comforts and luxuries. The rest of the time which remain unoccupied, is "killed" in a manner which has become routine and rigid. ... In the beautiful valley of Lijiang, then still untouched by the complexities and hurry of modern time, time had a different value. It was a gentle friend and a trusted teacher, possessing, there, a magical property which not only I but others had noticed. Instead of being too long it was too short; the days passed like hours and the weeks like days; a year was like a month; and my ten years spent there went by like one. It was not true that we were so busy that we had no time to perceive all the beauty and the goodness that was in that blessed valley. There was time for both. The people in the street interrupted their bargaining to admire a clump of roses or peer a minute into the clear depths of a stream. Farmers paused in their fields to gaze at the ever-changing face of the Snow Mountain. A flight of cranes was breathlessly watched by the market crowds and the songs of birds was commented upon by at length by busy Minkia carpenters who leaned back on their saws and axes. The groups of applecheeked old men, with flowing beards, laughed and joked liked children as they descended the hill, with rods in hands, for a fishing trip. A factory closed for a day or two as the workers suddenly wanted to have a picnic by a lake or on the Snow Mountain. And yet their work was done and done well. "
Monday, May 11, 2009
Hui-Hang Caravan Trail - planning diary
Didn't know that this place exists until our train ride to Huangshan.
The couple that shared our bunk in the train were heading there for a 25km hike... walking from the Anhui Border to Hangzhou- hence the name Hui-Hang.
After the Huangshan trip, we started looking for more information about this place... since we are now officially addicted to hiking and going to new places...
And the overnight train ride made it especially attractive because the scenery of the villages that we passed while on the train was really beautiful. And the overnight train ride made it possible for a 2 day weekend trekking adventure.
After popping the idea to my partner in crime- we managed to got another two accomplices for our trip- it was going to be a camping trip! And i have never been one before since I last left school ages ago so it was very exciting.
The date was set 24th to 26th April.
20th to 22nd.... we were planning so vigorously...!!!
As it was self-hiking route we have to make sure we take the right bus and we have timing in schedule....
After we managed to plan everything. And booked the tent- I made my way to the train ticketing office- long queue... it was a week before the famous Wu yi holiday across China.
When I finally got to my turn- lady said mai wan le....
Sad face.
So we started planning to go from the Hangzhou end... also hoping that there will be train ticket to Hangzhou, BUT the same... mai wan le... why is there so many people heading that direction?
It must be the spring travel fever that all of us got....!
Anyway second try coming this Friday.
I made my way to the ticketing agent office for the second time for the same purpose- bought the tickets and got them easily... then partner-in-crime discovered that I bought the wrong one- train time depart at 17:00 instead of 22:35 that we were planning to ride on.
Whoops my bad did not check properly- so I made my way back to the ticketing office and to my surprise discovered that Shanghai - Huangshan night train has been changed to evening morning 15 hour ride!!!
Since we are all working... we refunded our tickets- and bought a Shanghai Hangzhou ticket.
It would be interesting since we are going Hang Hui not Hui Hang. Plus the predicted thunderstorm this weekend- the boys ofcourse are kept from this news!
It is going to be an interesting trip so watch this space...
The couple that shared our bunk in the train were heading there for a 25km hike... walking from the Anhui Border to Hangzhou- hence the name Hui-Hang.
After the Huangshan trip, we started looking for more information about this place... since we are now officially addicted to hiking and going to new places...
And the overnight train ride made it especially attractive because the scenery of the villages that we passed while on the train was really beautiful. And the overnight train ride made it possible for a 2 day weekend trekking adventure.
After popping the idea to my partner in crime- we managed to got another two accomplices for our trip- it was going to be a camping trip! And i have never been one before since I last left school ages ago so it was very exciting.
The date was set 24th to 26th April.
20th to 22nd.... we were planning so vigorously...!!!
As it was self-hiking route we have to make sure we take the right bus and we have timing in schedule....
After we managed to plan everything. And booked the tent- I made my way to the train ticketing office- long queue... it was a week before the famous Wu yi holiday across China.
When I finally got to my turn- lady said mai wan le....
Sad face.
So we started planning to go from the Hangzhou end... also hoping that there will be train ticket to Hangzhou, BUT the same... mai wan le... why is there so many people heading that direction?
It must be the spring travel fever that all of us got....!
Anyway second try coming this Friday.
I made my way to the ticketing agent office for the second time for the same purpose- bought the tickets and got them easily... then partner-in-crime discovered that I bought the wrong one- train time depart at 17:00 instead of 22:35 that we were planning to ride on.
Whoops my bad did not check properly- so I made my way back to the ticketing office and to my surprise discovered that Shanghai - Huangshan night train has been changed to evening morning 15 hour ride!!!
Since we are all working... we refunded our tickets- and bought a Shanghai Hangzhou ticket.
It would be interesting since we are going Hang Hui not Hui Hang. Plus the predicted thunderstorm this weekend- the boys ofcourse are kept from this news!
It is going to be an interesting trip so watch this space...
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Roller Coaster
I had the busiest week ever, and yet I felt that I did not achieve much. It feels weird.
But I love the way this week ends... and I think God is so great to give me that grace to just let go...
The blessing that I received was - The Farmer's Market at the DC was not crowded but it feels good just to be out of the office.
To feel the sun- to feel the grass on my feet- to see the kids and their simplicity - to be able to breathe...
The meeting with CM- and to know that I am not the only one feeling this way - so frustrated- not knowing exactly what to do - and to not know what to expect next.
I think it is weird that my life is such a roller coaster experience... there are some things that are just beyond my control... eventhough I believed in relying on myself to make things happen or did not happen - but some things I think it is better just to ride on... just like surfing on the sea of waves....
Where does life bring me next?
Who knows!
BUT I thank God for the present and His presence in my life.
Let's ride it all.... with Him.
But I love the way this week ends... and I think God is so great to give me that grace to just let go...
The blessing that I received was - The Farmer's Market at the DC was not crowded but it feels good just to be out of the office.
To feel the sun- to feel the grass on my feet- to see the kids and their simplicity - to be able to breathe...
The meeting with CM- and to know that I am not the only one feeling this way - so frustrated- not knowing exactly what to do - and to not know what to expect next.
I think it is weird that my life is such a roller coaster experience... there are some things that are just beyond my control... eventhough I believed in relying on myself to make things happen or did not happen - but some things I think it is better just to ride on... just like surfing on the sea of waves....
Where does life bring me next?
Who knows!
BUT I thank God for the present and His presence in my life.
Let's ride it all.... with Him.
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Lijiang- Yunnan 30 April 2009 Yulong Xue Shan - Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Anything with Jade and Dragon in China must be good in China....
So we have discovered the Yulongxue Shan... which means in direct translation Yu- Dragon, Long- Dragon, Xue- Snow and Shan- Mountain.
It is a short enjoyable 30 minutes ride from Lijiang city to the Yulongxue Shan Park.
I think that one can get so confused in Lijiang on how to get to places (if one is not travelling with a tour like I did) and also confused about how much ticket costs because there are so many types of them. So here i will also share on what i know.
Upon arrival in Lijiang, we were asked to pay 80RMB each person for Environmental Protection of Lijiang Fee. This ticket is white with green fonts. Remember that you have to KEEP this ticket all your stay in Lijiang- because if you don't pay it or if you lose it, you can't enter the Old City (gucheng) or you have to buy one again when you want to enter the Yulongxueshan.
This ticket also guarantees you a free entry to the Black Dragon Pool Park (just above the "old city"- gucheng).
Anyway, my family and I asked the hotel to arrange our transport which worked out to be quite reasonable at 35RMB per person return with a nice van and a free tour guide (whom without our request brought for us a light lunch of sandwiches and boiled eggs as well in case we were hungry!). There were taxis as well that offered to take us there for 150RMB return.
There are three options for trails: we chose A: which supposed to bring us the highest we can go, that is to 4680m (the height of the mountain is 5000m something) and no one has ever gone there. So the first part was to pay entrance fee which is 80RMB per person at the gate, when the car stopped, and then next when you get down at the locket, pay the cable car fee which was 150RMB return, plus 20RMB bus fee and 2RMB insurance if you should wish to pay. If you haven't got the 80RMB Environmental Protection Ticket, you have to buy one here.
Phew! What a mathematic confusion and a hole in the pocket! (The only consolation is that the park keeps the place real clean and protected so I feel good still)
Anyway after that, get into the internal bus service that brings you to the entrance of the cable car station. Not far maybe about 10 minutes ride up a hill. When you get down, it is already the cable car station, and just jump into one of them. The cable car ride is long! Imagine 3 km , up and slow.... my Dad who has height phobia dare not looked down!
The view is nice... the pine trees and the spring pink and purple flowers can be seen sprouting up and also the glacier covering the mountain top. However I should say that is quite sad that I think there is much less now than before due to the global-warming.
Once you get down from the cable car, all white!!! Snow! Glacier!
From here, there is a man-made wooden staircase that will take you to the 4680m level. Which is not far but because the air is so thin... is hard to go very fast and absolutely not recommended to go fast!
I was okay going up because i took a lot of breaks and synchronised my breathing at the different heights but when I went down, I took it a little fast and I suffered quite badly from it. the whole night of headache and neck pain... so actually I would recommend buying an oxygen tank 60ml at 60RMB and if you haven't got a jacket to keep you warm at zero degrees, you can rent them for 30RMB.
BUT please do not be discouraged from going up because the view is fantastic and moreover the sense of achievement that you feel- like on top of the world!
So we have discovered the Yulongxue Shan... which means in direct translation Yu- Dragon, Long- Dragon, Xue- Snow and Shan- Mountain.
It is a short enjoyable 30 minutes ride from Lijiang city to the Yulongxue Shan Park.
I think that one can get so confused in Lijiang on how to get to places (if one is not travelling with a tour like I did) and also confused about how much ticket costs because there are so many types of them. So here i will also share on what i know.
Upon arrival in Lijiang, we were asked to pay 80RMB each person for Environmental Protection of Lijiang Fee. This ticket is white with green fonts. Remember that you have to KEEP this ticket all your stay in Lijiang- because if you don't pay it or if you lose it, you can't enter the Old City (gucheng) or you have to buy one again when you want to enter the Yulongxueshan.
This ticket also guarantees you a free entry to the Black Dragon Pool Park (just above the "old city"- gucheng).
Anyway, my family and I asked the hotel to arrange our transport which worked out to be quite reasonable at 35RMB per person return with a nice van and a free tour guide (whom without our request brought for us a light lunch of sandwiches and boiled eggs as well in case we were hungry!). There were taxis as well that offered to take us there for 150RMB return.
There are three options for trails: we chose A: which supposed to bring us the highest we can go, that is to 4680m (the height of the mountain is 5000m something) and no one has ever gone there. So the first part was to pay entrance fee which is 80RMB per person at the gate, when the car stopped, and then next when you get down at the locket, pay the cable car fee which was 150RMB return, plus 20RMB bus fee and 2RMB insurance if you should wish to pay. If you haven't got the 80RMB Environmental Protection Ticket, you have to buy one here.
Phew! What a mathematic confusion and a hole in the pocket! (The only consolation is that the park keeps the place real clean and protected so I feel good still)
Anyway after that, get into the internal bus service that brings you to the entrance of the cable car station. Not far maybe about 10 minutes ride up a hill. When you get down, it is already the cable car station, and just jump into one of them. The cable car ride is long! Imagine 3 km , up and slow.... my Dad who has height phobia dare not looked down!
The view is nice... the pine trees and the spring pink and purple flowers can be seen sprouting up and also the glacier covering the mountain top. However I should say that is quite sad that I think there is much less now than before due to the global-warming.
Once you get down from the cable car, all white!!! Snow! Glacier!
From here, there is a man-made wooden staircase that will take you to the 4680m level. Which is not far but because the air is so thin... is hard to go very fast and absolutely not recommended to go fast!
I was okay going up because i took a lot of breaks and synchronised my breathing at the different heights but when I went down, I took it a little fast and I suffered quite badly from it. the whole night of headache and neck pain... so actually I would recommend buying an oxygen tank 60ml at 60RMB and if you haven't got a jacket to keep you warm at zero degrees, you can rent them for 30RMB.
BUT please do not be discouraged from going up because the view is fantastic and moreover the sense of achievement that you feel- like on top of the world!
Friday, May 1, 2009
Lijiang - Yunnan 29 April 2009 - Naxi Guyue
Before the 7.2 earthquake that hit Lijiang in 1996, Lijiang is probably unknown to many. Lijiang was so isolated, even to the Chinese then, as there had been invasions and military campaigns in Yunnan, but they rarely affected the inner life of the Naxi people- as the valley is surrounded by the mountains and it was so remote and difficult to access... the life condition was also still barbaric hence soldiers hardly wanted to stay a day more. Thus, Lijiang has always remained so peaceful and isolated and could devote itself to the ancient arts.
One of the very well preserved tradition is the Naxi Ancient Music - 纳西古乐.
Xuan Ke- the President of the Naxi Ancient Music Tradition, is the man who is responsible for leading the preservation of this Ancient Music and publicised it world wide.
On my first night to Lijiang, I really did not know what to expect when I bought the ticket to see the Naxi Ancient Music performance. Upon entrance of the music concert "hall" - one will expect nothing of the grandness of the modern concert hall... it was basically rows of wooden chairs, with a wooden platform with chairs and instruments laid out on them already. No sound system. No covered sound proof or enhanced wall... so you can imagine that is is pretty basic, where one would expect to be a hundred year ago but without a roof maybe and without the decorations.
Authentic!
Anyway at 8pm, it started promptly with all the performers marching in the stage! Men mostly in their 60's 70's and 80's walked in... and noticed that one of them was wearing a black sunglasses and had to be led when walked in- discovered later that he was blind! He was blind since birth but he gives out this sense of funkiness, we were told later by the narrator that he is 80! And he could speak 4 English sentences, which are: How are you, Where are you from, That is a nice country and Bye Bye! (Imagine a "laowai" in conversation with him... A: How are you, Laowai: I am fine; A: Where are you from?, Laowai: Britain (for eg.); A: Oh that is a nice country, Laowai: Oh you know that country; And before Laowai could ask anything else, A: Bye Bye (in a quick manner and escapade!)) :)
They played well- almost all of them hold a different instrument, some string like things- called "sugudu", "quxiapipa", and then there is the "guchen" and some gong chimes. What I found to be so amazing is that there is no conductor, no music scores in front of them, and funnily enough some of these old people look as if they were sleeping when they were playing as they had their eyes almost closed.... how did they play in harmony I have no idea.... perhaps they have practised endlessly... i am guessing perhaps that they were playing with their heart, and feelings...
The sound of the music, had a lot of the Daoism influence in it. It sounds as if music that would be heard during meditation rituals or funerals in the temple... During the performance we were also treated to a Naxi style opera (as opposed to the well known Beijing Opera) the old man told a joke about borrowing his neighbour's wife. Ofcourse I could only understood 30% of it but I could guess from the mimick of the opera singer... he was real funny!
Nearly one hour to the performance- we were treated to a surprise when Xuan Ke himself walked in to the stage. He dressed really simply and pretty modern for a Chinese Man I thought. But what was surprising is that he speak fluent English. He told us a story that he just turned 80 years old and he regretted celebrating it because now all his friends told him to be careful when he walk, and do this and that... things that a 80 year old should watch out for. BUT he definitely did not look like 80 and his spirit - firing like a youth!
He told us that he went to a Mission School in Kunming when he was young ( did not know that a mission school exist in Kunming in 1940's?) and he majored in music and the English language, but because during the cultural revolution, he went to jail (not sure why) and then when he was released he taught Maths! And he became the best Maths teacher! He has gone to many universities to study and lecture inc. London and Oxford Universities...
On my first night in Lijiang- I was very inspired by him and all the 60-80 years old who played the Naxi music instruments... feeling very proud of their culture and still believe in passing on the tradition to the next...
The Naxi People are really special. More on the next chapter why.
One of the very well preserved tradition is the Naxi Ancient Music - 纳西古乐.
Xuan Ke- the President of the Naxi Ancient Music Tradition, is the man who is responsible for leading the preservation of this Ancient Music and publicised it world wide.
On my first night to Lijiang, I really did not know what to expect when I bought the ticket to see the Naxi Ancient Music performance. Upon entrance of the music concert "hall" - one will expect nothing of the grandness of the modern concert hall... it was basically rows of wooden chairs, with a wooden platform with chairs and instruments laid out on them already. No sound system. No covered sound proof or enhanced wall... so you can imagine that is is pretty basic, where one would expect to be a hundred year ago but without a roof maybe and without the decorations.
Authentic!
Anyway at 8pm, it started promptly with all the performers marching in the stage! Men mostly in their 60's 70's and 80's walked in... and noticed that one of them was wearing a black sunglasses and had to be led when walked in- discovered later that he was blind! He was blind since birth but he gives out this sense of funkiness, we were told later by the narrator that he is 80! And he could speak 4 English sentences, which are: How are you, Where are you from, That is a nice country and Bye Bye! (Imagine a "laowai" in conversation with him... A: How are you, Laowai: I am fine; A: Where are you from?, Laowai: Britain (for eg.); A: Oh that is a nice country, Laowai: Oh you know that country; And before Laowai could ask anything else, A: Bye Bye (in a quick manner and escapade!)) :)
They played well- almost all of them hold a different instrument, some string like things- called "sugudu", "quxiapipa", and then there is the "guchen" and some gong chimes. What I found to be so amazing is that there is no conductor, no music scores in front of them, and funnily enough some of these old people look as if they were sleeping when they were playing as they had their eyes almost closed.... how did they play in harmony I have no idea.... perhaps they have practised endlessly... i am guessing perhaps that they were playing with their heart, and feelings...
The sound of the music, had a lot of the Daoism influence in it. It sounds as if music that would be heard during meditation rituals or funerals in the temple... During the performance we were also treated to a Naxi style opera (as opposed to the well known Beijing Opera) the old man told a joke about borrowing his neighbour's wife. Ofcourse I could only understood 30% of it but I could guess from the mimick of the opera singer... he was real funny!
Nearly one hour to the performance- we were treated to a surprise when Xuan Ke himself walked in to the stage. He dressed really simply and pretty modern for a Chinese Man I thought. But what was surprising is that he speak fluent English. He told us a story that he just turned 80 years old and he regretted celebrating it because now all his friends told him to be careful when he walk, and do this and that... things that a 80 year old should watch out for. BUT he definitely did not look like 80 and his spirit - firing like a youth!
He told us that he went to a Mission School in Kunming when he was young ( did not know that a mission school exist in Kunming in 1940's?) and he majored in music and the English language, but because during the cultural revolution, he went to jail (not sure why) and then when he was released he taught Maths! And he became the best Maths teacher! He has gone to many universities to study and lecture inc. London and Oxford Universities...
On my first night in Lijiang- I was very inspired by him and all the 60-80 years old who played the Naxi music instruments... feeling very proud of their culture and still believe in passing on the tradition to the next...
The Naxi People are really special. More on the next chapter why.
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